Young Muslims of Australia Forum

OM · Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 37 Location: Melbourne

Ramadan in Sudan

At Home Away From Home

By Yazeed Kamaldien

Freelance Writer -- South Africa

One wouldn't usually expect to hear a rhythmic drum beat accompanied by young men's voices at 3:30 a.m. But this is Ramadan in Sudan, and the call is to awaken Muslims intending to embark on another day of fasting.

Waking Up to Ramadan

The young men energetically make their way through Khartoum's suburbs to ensure that Muslims aren't sleeping. Their spirited alarm bells come about an hour-and-a-half before the Prayer call for Fajr (the first of Islam's five compulsory Prayers) when Muslims stop eating until sunset during Ramadan.

It is prescribed that Muslims have sohour, a meal before the Fajr Prayer commences, and it seems the young men want no person to skip this early morning breakfast. Their vigorous stomping would liven up even the sleepiest among us.

Although there wasn't really a sense of buildup prior to Ramadan in Khartoum, the ninth Islamic month has certainly delivered change in daily activities and market prices. On the first day of Ramadan, I witnessed the tough bargaining required at the market, Souk Al-Arabi, when a friend, Hashim Farah, asked me to accompany him to purchase some fruits and vegetables.

Ramadan Market

I would then accompany him to his home in the Kalakla suburb and have iftar - the meal taken when breaking the fast as the Maghrib (Sunset) Prayer arrives - with his family. Farah is a persistent bargain hunter, and he buzzed from one fruit stall to another to secure the best deals. The market was bustling with other shoppers doing the same.

Dr. Abdelilah Badawi, a university lecturer involved in the agricultural sector, says prices rise during Ramadan as the "supply and demand principle applies."

"Certain fruits and vegetables will cost more in Ramadan because more people need them to make certain meals. Natural products are used in quite a few traditional Ramadan meals and drinks in Sudan. A very popular and typical Sudanese drink is abreh," informs Badawi.

"There's red and white abreh, and it's made of sorghum. It helps you deal with your thirst. We also have another natural meal, roegag, made of w

flour and mixed with milk. It's like corn flakes, and it's delicious."

Food is of course not the only priority in Ramadan, and Badawi adds that this time of the year also means that "mosques will be full."

Charity in Ramadan

"There is not so much emphasis before Ramadan starts, as in minority communities, but during Ramadan there is a lot of religious activity in Sudan. There are also many radio programs about Ramadan," says Badawi.

Fathi Ibrahim, who works at humanitarian agency Muslim Aid's head office in Khartoum, says the nongovernmental sector also plays a significant role in assisting persons in need during Ramadan.

"Many aid agencies will prepare mass iftar programs in Ramadan. We're offering fruits and food to students at hostels and we are also organizing Qur'an and Sunnah lessons after iftar," says Ibrahim.

"We also have volunteers who give dates and water at the time of iftar to persons who are on the road. The volunteers will be at stop streets, and anyone who couldn't make it home for iftar will get some dates and water."

I've noticed the packed mosques that Badawi had referred to. The mosque closest to my home in Arkaweet hosts men reciting the Qur'an from the Fajr Prayer right through to the last evening prayer, `Isha'.

Prayers

After the Fajr Prayer, men gather in a circle and recite the Qur'an chapters in unison. The Qur'an - believed by Muslims to be the words of the one true God, Allah - was first revealed in Ramadan.

After Zhuhr (Noon) Prayer, men also gather in the mosque to recite the Qur'an and quite a few take comfort from the exhaustive

by taking a nap inside the air-conditioned sanctuary.

on some days the electricity cuts out in various parts of Khartoum, making the temperatures that could shoot up to more than 40 degrees Celsius a bit uncomfortable. But this is normal in a developing city where water cuts are also common and it's no surprise to see a donkey-cart next to a raging bus during peak hour traffic.

After `Isha', men and women also gather at the local mosque for the Tarawih Prayer. These extra voluntary prayers in the evening are adopted by Muslims who seek to increase their faith during Ramadan. Interestingly, there are more women than men at the local mosque. The top section of the mosque is for women while the bottom section is for men.

Both sections are packed but at the back entrance of the mosque, one finds about 60 women praying on mats. There is no space for them in the top section. During the Tarawih Prayer, the mosque vicinity is also alive with little boys and girls playing on the well-kept grass lawns. The boys chase bugs, and the girls race one another. Their giggles and bursts of energy add to the charming atmosphere of this communal space of worship.

Sharing Iftar

On the second day of Ramadan, I was still in Kalakla. Farah's family had invited me to spend the previous night at their place, displaying the familiar Sudanese warmth and hospitality. In the late afternoon, Farah and I decided to take a short walk. By the time we made our way back to his house, the neighbors had set up their straw mats and iftar meals in the street.

I discovered that this is an age-old tradition in Sudan during Ramadan. Any passerby is welcome to join the gathering for iftar. The neighbors invited Farah and me to join them. We didn't dare disrespectfully decline. Iftar this way is meant to strengthen relations between neighbors and also serve as a means to assist those Muslims on the road, perhaps not able to make it to their families, to conclude their day of fasting.

This is been my first Ramadan outside South Africa, my home country. So far, so good.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yazeed Kamaldien is a freelance journalist and photographer from South Africa. His work spans across print, broadcast, and online media outlets. He has worked in Egypt, Jordan and Germany. He can be contacted via artculture@iolteam.com.

_________________
And We have not sent You except as a mercy to all the worlds ( Al Quran - 21:107)